Gardening in January

Flowers
If any dead hellebore foliage still clings to plants, remove this to assist emerging new blooms provide some welcome winter colour.

Early sowings of begonias, lobelia and geranium (pelargonium) can be made, as all need a long growing season for planting out in late May and early June.  A heated propagator gives a good start, but keep a careful eye on seedlings and reduce the warmth immediately after emergence to prevent them becoming drawn and ‘leggy’.  A light dusting of vermiculite over tiny lobelia and begonia seeds allows light to pass through it and gives the tiny seedlings a little anchorage.  Lobelia seedlings are very delicate and best results may be had from sowing pinches of seed into small modules to produce a healthy clump of little plants which will require no further pricking out or transplanting.

Sweet pea seed can also be sown in pots and kept in an unheated greenhouse.  Sow five to seven seeds per 5in pot, water well after sowing and not again until seedlings emerge.  When frost threatens, provide a little extra protection with horticultural fleece or newspapers.

Ornamental grasses can give a great deal of pleasure for very little maintenance and their skeletal forms at this time of year can look dramatic when covered with frost.  It is, however, worth cutting back tall stems to prevent wind and rain damage.  Some of their leaves, especially those of pampas grass (Cortaderia) can be very sharp, so wear stout gloves when performing this operation!

Plant lilies in pots for colourful patio and courtyard displays.  Plant three bulbs per 12in pot of a soil-based compost, such as John Innes No 2.  Leave the containers somewhere sheltered and ensure the compost becomes neither waterlogged nor dried-out.  Bring them out into the open garden when it warms up in spring.

January is the ideal month to prune wisteria.  Cut back last year’s growth to spurs of just two or three buds to ensure prolific flowering in July.  It also means the beautiful racemes are not hidden by too much leafy growth.

Vegetables
Order seed of your favourites and any new varieties you wish to try in 2011.  New varieties especially tend to sell out quickly. 

Seed of tomatoes destined for the greenhouse can be sown from late January onwards.  A heated propagator is good for this, but, as with flower seeds, reduce the heat after germination to prevent plants becoming too tall too quickly.  Pot the seedlings on individually when they are about 2in high, but remember they will still need to kept in a fairly warm environment for several more weeks.  Well worth the effort when you starting picking tomatoes earlier than anyone else!

Rhubarb, technically a vegetable, can be forced by placing a large bucket, dustbin or special forcing pot over it.  This will encourage the production of sweet, succulent rich pink stems to enjoy from late spring onwards.  Seakale (not seakale beet, which is completely different!) can be treated in much the same way to yield blanched, tasty stems.

If you have not already done so, net brassicas against pigeons and other predators.  Before doing so, check the plants are still firmly in the ground as they are prone to wind-rock, especially taller types such as Brussels sprouts and kale (borecole).  Firm in any which are becoming loose.

Start ‘chitting’ seed potatoes as soon as you can.  Egg boxes or seed trays are ideal for this.  Place the ‘rose’ end (where most of the tiny shoots are) uppermost and leave them somewhere frost-free, light and cool.  This gives them a really good start in life and is particularly valuable for early varieties, which can crop up to three weeks earlier than tubers which have not been chitted.  The aim is to produce stubby little shoots.  Well worth the little effort, in our view!

Fruit Trees
Apple and pear trees, especially established bush, half-standard and standard forms, benefit from a January pruning, but not if conditions are very wet or frosty – so not always easy to find a time!  There is, however, time as the job does not need to be completed until late February.  Pruning will increase yield and keep tree size in check.  Take a general look at the tree and aim to finish with an attractive form.  Remove all dead and damaged wood, followed by any branches which are badly placed or crossing others.  Always prune to an outward facing bud.  If in doubt, prune rather lightly than too severely, always making a good, clean cut with sharp secateurs.

Christmas Trees
Remember that after Christmas many local authorities offer  a recycling facility for spent trees.  We mentioned it last month, but it is worth repeating.